MYRISTYL MYRISTATE MYRISTYL MYRISTATE is classified as : Emollient Opacifying Skin conditioning CAS Number 3234-85-3 EINECS/ELINCS No: 221-787-9 COSING REF No: 35459 Chem/IUPAC Name: Tetradecyl myristate Myristyl Myristate What Is Myristyl Myristate? Myristyl myristate is used in a variety of cosmetics and skincare products to improve the texture of formulations and help to keep the skin moisturized and hydrated. Myristyl myristate is generally used as an emollient, texture enhancer, and co-emulsifier. Myristyl myristate is a naturally derived fatty alcohol. While alcohols are often associated with drying formulations but fatty alcohols are different to other alcohols. Fatty alcohols are a combination of oils and fats with alcohol that actually have hydrating and emollient properties. Myristyl myristate naturally occurs in several types of oils and fats. For instance, nutmeg butter is comprised of 75% trimyristin, the triglyceride of myristic acid. In addition to nutmeg, myristic acid is found in palm kernel oil, coconut oil, butterfat, 8 to 14% of bovine milk, and 8.6% of breast milk. Myristyl myristate exists as a white or yellowish waxy solid. Myristyl myristate is most often made from vegetable oils for cosmetic use. Myristic acid is most commonly used in eye makeup, moisturizers, soaps and detergents, hair care products, nail care products, shaving products, and other skincare products. It is typically used at concentrations of 1 to 10%. THE BREAKDOWN Myristyl Myristate THE GOOD:Myristyl myristate is mainly used to help improve the texture of skincare and cosmetic products but also has the added benefit of helping to moisturize the skin. THE NOT SO GOOD:It is not a particularly active ingredient, apart from adding moisture it does little else for the skin. WHO IS IT FOR?All skin types except those that have an identified allergy to it. SYNERGETIC INGREDIENTS:Works well with most ingredients KEEP AN EYE ON:Nothing to keep an eye on here, myristyl myristate is safe and doesn’t cause irritation. How Does Myristyl Myristate Work? In cosmetics and skincare products, myristyl myristate functions as an emollient, texture enhancer, and moisturizer. Moisture Myristyl myristate is used as a moisturizer in formulations. As an emollient myristyl myristate works to soften and soothe the skin and hair. Emollients work but forming a protective barrier on the surface of the skin. This action helps to trap water in the top few layers of the skin, improving the skin barrier integrity. The skin barrier is the first few layers of the skin and the natural oils that the skin produces that protect the skin from bacteria, allergens, and prevents water loss to the environment. These same properties also help to keep the hair soft, hydrated, and manageable. Myristyl myristate is a soft wax that melts at body temperature, which helps to improve the moisture of the skin and reduce flakiness. Texture Myristyl myristate also functions to improve the texture of formulations. It helps to improve the spreadability of a product, making sure that the product evenly distributes the key ingredients. In certain soap formulations, an excess of myristyl myristate produces pearl effects giving the skin a glossy appearance. Myristyl myristate reduces the watery feel of hand and body lotions and imparts a richness in the sensory feel of the products. Interestingly, the addition of myristyl myristate to an emulsion can take it from dull gray to bright white, making the product look more appealing. Stabilizer Myristyl myristate is also used for its stabilizing benefits. When water and oil-based ingredients are mixed together it is hard to keep them mixed. Myristyl myristate is used to help keep an evenly mixed formulation that prevents separating. The combination of fatty alcohol and fatty acids in myristyl myristate thickens emulsions and improves stability making the emulsion much more stable to temperature variations and higher oil levels. Rather than increasing the amount of emulsifier, which would stiffen the product, a co-emulsifier like myristyl myristate can be used to improve the overall emulsion stability while delivering additional benefits not offered through increased emulsifiers. Is Myristyl Myristate Safe? The safety of myristyl myristate has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Both animal and human studies have demonstrated that myristyl myristate does not produce skin irritation or sensitization. Based on these findings, the CIR Expert Panel concluded that myristic acid and its salts and esters were safe as a cosmetic ingredient when it’s used for its approved uses and concentrations. Myristyl Myristate What Is Myristyl Myristate? Myristic Acid is a fatty acid that occurs naturally in some foods. Purified Myristic Acid occurs as a hard, white or faintly yellow, glossy crystalline solid, or as a white or yellow-white powder. Salts of Myristic Acid (Aluminum Dimyristate, Aluminum Isostearates/Myristate, Aluminum Myristate, Aluminum Myristates/Palmitates, Calcium Myristate, Magnesium Myristate, Potassium Myristate, Sodium Myristate, Zinc Myristate) and esters of Myristic Acid (Butyl Myristate, Cetyl Myristate, Decyl Myristate, Ethylhexyl Myristate, Ethyl Myristate, Glyceryl Dimyristate, Glyceryl Isostearate/Myristate, Glyceryl Myristate, Isobutyl Myristate, Isocetyl Myristate, Isodecyl Myristate, Isopropyl Myristate, Isostearyl Myristate, Isotridecyl Myristate, Lauryl Myristate, Methyl Myristate, Myristyl Myristate, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Oleyl Myristate, Propylene Glycol Myristate, Tetradecyloctadecyl Myristate, Tridecyl Myristate) may also be used in cosmetics and personal care products. Myristic Acid and its salts and esters may be used in eye makeup, soaps and detergents, hair care products, nail care products, shaving products and other skin care products. Why is Myristyl Myristate used in cosmetics and personal care products? The following functions have been reported for Myristic Acid and its salts and esters. Anticaking agent - Aluminum Dimyristate, Aluminum Isostearates/Myristates, Aluminum Myristate, Aluminum Myristates/Palmitates, Calcium Myristate, Magnesium Myristate, Zinc Myristate Binder - Isopropyl Myristate, Isostearyl Myristate, Tetradecyloctyldecyl Myristate Emulsion stabilizer - Aluminum Dimyristate, Aluminum Isostearates/Myristates, Aluminum Myristate, Aluminum Myristates/Palmitates, Calcium Myristate, Tetradecyloctyldecyl Myristate Film former - Tetradecyloctyldecyl Myristate Hair conditioning agent - Ethyl Myristate, Isotridecyl Myristate, Lauryl Myristate, Oleyl Myristate Opacifying agent - Myristic Acid, Tetradecyloctyldecyl Myristate Slip modifier - Magnesium Myristate, Zinc Myristate Skin-Conditioning Agent - Emollient - Butyl Myristate, Ethylhexyl Myristate, Ethyl Myristate, Glyceryl Dimyristate, Glyceryl Isostearate/Myristate, Glyceryl Myristate, Isobutyl Myristate, Isodecyl Myristate, Isopropyl Myristate, Isostearyl Myristate, Methyl Myristate, Propylene Glycol Myristate Skin-conditioning agent - occlusive - Cetyl Myristate, Decyl Myristate, Isocetyl Myristate, Isotridecyl Myristate, Lauryl Myristate, Myristyl Myristate, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Oleyl Myristate, Tetradecyloctyldecyl Myristate, Tridecyl Myristate Surfactant - cleansing agent - Myristic Acid, Potassium Myristate, Sodium Myristate Surfactant - emulsifying agent - Potassium Myristate, Sodium Myristate, Glyceryl Isostearate/Myristate, Glyceryl Myristate, Propylene Glycol Myristate Viscosity increasing agent - nonaqueous - Aluminum Dimyristate, Aluminum Isostearates/Myristates, Aluminum Myristate, Aluminum Myristates/Palmitates, Calcium Myristate, Magnesium Myristate, Zinc Myristate Scientific Facts: Myristic Acid, also called tetradecanoic acid, occurs naturally in vegetable or animal fats and oils with relatively high levels found in nutmeg, palm oil, coconut oil and butter fat. The salts of Myristic acid are formed by reaction with base materials such as sodium or potassium hydroxide. The esters of Myristic Acid are derived from Myristic Acid and an alcohol. For example, Isopropyl Myristate is derived from Myristic Acid and isopropyl alcohol, and Butyl Myristate is derived from Myristic Acid and butyl alcohol. Details Myristyl Myristate's a waxy emollient with a melting point near to skin temperature. It gives body and consistency to the formula and leaves a velvety feel on the skin. Myristyl Myristate has a high comedogenicity index (5 out of 5), so it might clog pores if you are prone to it. Famous dermatologist, Dr. Leslie Baumann also writes in her book, The Skin Type Solution to avoid this ingredient if you are acne-prone. Tetradecyl tetradecanoate is a tetradecanoate ester (myristate ester) resulting from the formal condensation of the carboxy group of tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid) with the hydroxy group of tetradecan-1-ol (myristyl alcohol). Used as an emollient. It has a role as an algal metabolite. It is a wax ester and a tetradecanoate ester. It derives from a tetradecan-1-ol. Molecular Weight of Myristyl Myristate: 424.7 g/mol Computed by PubChem 2.1 (PubChem release 2019.06.18) XLogP3-AA of Myristyl Myristate: 13 Computed by XLogP3 3.0 (PubChem release 2019.06.18) Hydrogen Bond Donor Count of Myristyl Myristate: 0 Computed by Cactvs 3.4.6.11 (PubChem release 2019.06.18) Hydrogen Bond Acceptor Count of Myristyl Myristate: 2 Computed by Cactvs 3.4.6.11 (PubChem release 2019.06.18) Rotatable Bond Count of Myristyl Myristate: 26 Computed by Cactvs 3.4.6.11 (PubChem release 2019.06.18) Exact Mass of Myristyl Myristate: 424.428031 g/mol Computed by PubChem 2.1 (PubChem release 2019.06.18) Monoisotopic Mass of Myristyl Myristate: 424.428031 g/mol Computed by PubChem 2.1 (PubChem release 2019.06.18) Topological Polar Surface Area of Myristyl Myristate: 26.3 Ų Computed by Cactvs 3.4.6.11 (PubChem release 2019.06.18) Heavy Atom Count of Myristyl Myristate: 30 Computed by PubChem Formal Charge of Myristyl Myristate: 0 Computed by PubChem Complexity of Myristyl Myristate: 327 Computed by Cactvs 3.4.6.11 (PubChem release 2019.06.18) Isotope Atom Count of Myristyl Myristate: 0 Computed by PubChem Defined Atom Stereocenter Count of Myristyl Myristate: 0 Computed by PubChem Undefined Atom Stereocenter Count of Myristyl Myristate: 0 Computed by PubChem Defined Bond Stereocenter Count of Myristyl Myristate: 0 Computed by PubChem Undefined Bond Stereocenter Count of Myristyl Myristate: 0 Computed by PubChem Covalently-Bonded Unit Count of Myristyl Myristate: 1 Computed by PubChem Compound of Myristyl Myristate Is Canonicalized Yes Myristyl Myristate is a 100% natural vegetable derived ester utilizing only the Myristic fatty acids. This combination of myristyl alcohol and myristic acid results in superior whitening to the product and improved benefits to the skin. Myristyl Myristate is used as a co-emulsifier for it's emulsion stabilizing benefits. The combination of fatty alcohol and fatty acids thickens emulsions and improves stability making the emulsion much more stable to temperature variations and higher oil and butter levels. The perfect choice when you've created your emulsion and it's just on the verge of de-stabilizing. This will be apparent through an appearance of oil or air in your product. Rather than increasing your emulsifier which would also stiffen your product, in most cases, a co-emulsifier is used to improve the overall emulsion stability while delivering additional benefits not offered through increased emulsifiers. Myristyl Myristate is also used to improve the aesthetics of emulsions. This is a good choice when your emulsion has an unpleasant color or dullness. Just the addition of Myristyl Myristate can take your emulsion from grey to bright white while giving it a smooth glossy appearance. Myristyl Myristate is most commonly used to improve the performance of emulsions. Being base on fatty acids it delivers skin conditioning benefits and improved moisture retention. Myristyl Myristate will also impart a very pleasant soft powdery feel on the skin. This is a great addition to your formulas when your final product does not deliver a nice feel on the skin or leaves the skin feeling too greasy. By adding Myristyl Myristate you can keep your oil and butter levels higher and still avoid the unpleasant greasiness. Myristyl Myristate offers an easy way to create lotions and creams with a silky, rich feel and a dry powdery feel. Especially suitable for those products with a high butter content when the oily effect is undesirable. Functioning as both a co-emulsifier and an opacifier it's an easy way to improve the visual appeal of your product while at the same time improving on the feel of the product on the skin. ATTRIBUTES Provides a pleasantly soft & substantive feel to emulsions Offers an excellent dry powdery feel on the skin Contributes excellent emulsion enhancement, imparting body and a white opacifying effect Offers a solution to natural color where it gives your emulsions white glossy appearance Excellent super fatting / thickening agent GUIDELINES 2.0 - 8.0% Add to the oil phase APPLICATIONS Creams and Lotions Massage and Body Oils Hair Conditioners SPECIFICATIONS Appearance: White Flake Odor: Characteristic Solubility: Oil Storage: Cool, Tightly Sealed, Protected from Moisture Shelf: 24 Months Properly Stored / Handled myristyl myristate Rating: GOOD Categories: Texture Enhancer, Emollients Used in cosmetics as a texture enhancer and emollient. It has a wetter feel and is best for dry skin. Functions: Myristyl Myristate is a naturally derived ester, formed by the combination of Myristyl Alcohol and Myristic Acid, which occurs naturally in animal or vegetable fats or oils. It is originally formed as a white or yellowish waxy solid, and is used as a skin conditioning agent, emulsifier and opacifier in skin care products and cosmetics. It provides a pleasant, soft feel to formulas, as well as an excellent dry, powdery after-feel to lotions and creams, according to research. Myristyl Myristate is an excellent emulsion enhancer that imparts a white opacifying effect or glossy appearance, and is an effective thickening agent as well. Safety Measures/Side Effects: Myristyl Myristate is considered safe and is approved by the CIR for use in cosmetics. The EWG reports a 95% safety rating for it, although some studies have linked it to mild irritation when applied to skin directly.